This time around, I had three full weeks. Mondays to Fridays were mainly dictated by work, but we made the most of the evenings, weekends and bank holidays.
In order to get a grasp of the country, you really need this time: first you need to get over the heat (44 degrees during the day, 30 at night), the chaos on the streets, the dirt, the dust, the poverty. Pretty much everyone gets sick at least once and ripped off by a taxi driver at least twice.
But slowly over time, India reveals its many layers: the richness in culture, the diversity in religion, the stunning landscapes ranging from snowy mountain tops to tropical beaches, the temples, palaces and forts, the colourful saris on the streets, the spices, the craftswork...
And then it hits you - the sudden realisation that the world is a big place, that there are more than 1 billion people in India alone. That their life couldn't be more different from yours. That you may have lived in a little bubble for a very long time.
India is not a typical holiday destination. People don't tend to come home and tell their friends about the amazing cocktails they had by the beach or the great souvenirs they snapped up at the market (although all of this is to be had).
They remember the shop owner, who only sees his family 3 times a year because he has to work in the city. The Sadhus or holy men, who walk hundreds of miles on their pilgrimage in search of enlightenment. The driver, who got sacked only because he accidentally dropped you off at the wrong place. The family by the street corner, who was so poor that the children were chewing on dry twigs. The mighty Ganges, which is used for recreation as well as cremation. The fact that cars would stop for cows, but not for people.
The experience runs very deep and in a way it reconnects people with what's essential in life - family, charity, gratitude, growth.
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